Martine Rose appointed creative director at Balenciaga | Balenciaga

For the first time in its 109-year history, the fashion house Balenciaga is to be led by a woman, with the British designer Martine Rose appointed as creative director of the brand.

Her appointment at Balenciaga marks a breakthrough in the white, male-dominated fashion industry. Rose is only the second Black woman to lead a major European house. Her appointment follows Grace Wales Bonner, who in 2025 was announced as the men’s creative director at Hermès.

Rose, who launched her own label in London in 2007, has become one of the most influential voices in menswear. She has built a cult following for her streetwear-inspired designs and celebrations of British subcultures through her mashup of influences including football, reggae and northern soul.

Her designs have been worn by celebrities including Justin Bieber, Timothée Chalamet and Drake. Alongside namechecking her in a song, the rapper Kendrick Lamar turned to Rose for a custom varsity jacket, emblazoned with Gloria, one of his song titles, for his widely acclaimed 2025 Super Bowl half-time performance. Rihanna and Hailey Bieber are also fans.

She succeeds Pierpaolo Piccioli, whose departure was announced on Thursday after 18 months at the luxury Spanish brand.

Rose said: “It is a true privilege to be appointed creative director of Balenciaga, a house with an extraordinary heritage and a fearless creative spirit.

“Balenciaga has been shaped by remarkable creative talents before me. I am committed to honouring this legacy and look forward to creating the next chapter in this rich and beautiful story.”

Rose, who is best known for her eponymous menswear label, previously worked at Balenciaga menswear for three years during the tenure of Demna, the mononymic designer who made giant “Dad” trainers and bags that look like crisp packets desirable. During this time she helped shape its then signature oversized identity. She will now oversee both its men’s and womenswear lines.

Her appointment is part of a wider overhaul of the portfolio of Kering, which also owns Gucci, Bottega Veneta and Saint Laurent, by the CEO Luca de Meo as he attempts to revive the struggling group. In a statement, De Meo described Rose’s appointment as a reflection of Kering’s “ambition to keep Balenciaga at the forefront of innovation, creativity and culture”.

Rose, speaking to the Guardian in 2023, said she liked the challenge of designing men’s clothing. “This is not to make myself sound really cool, but I like to break the rules,” she said. “And there’s loads of rules of menswear.”

She has become known for her community-focused events and unconventional show venues. In 2019 she staged an open-air neighbourhood presentation in a north London cul-de-sac. The following year she presented a collection at her daughter’s primary school; while in 2023, she took over a shuttered gay sauna in south London.

In 2023 she was a guest designer at Florence’s Pitti Uomo, one of the industry’s most important menswear events, where she paid tribute to Italo house music that took over British dancefloors in the late 80s. Her cast consisted of Florentine people alongside some of her London-based friends.

An instigator of outlandish trends, Rose has reworked football shirts, popularised super baggy jeans and made a heeled version of Nike’s Shox sneakers a must-have. She also collaborated with the sportswear company on a “genderless” tailored collection that was unveiled during the 2023 Women’s World Cup. This was quickly followed by a guest creative director slot at Clarks, the first time in the company’s 200-year history.

Rose was born in south London. Her father, who is Jamaican, worked as an accountant; while her British mother is a former nurse. Rose did a foundation year at Camberwell College of Arts before studying fashion at Middlesex University.

After graduating in 2002, she started a T-shirt line with a friend before closing the business three years later to focus on her own brand. In 2011, as part of the Newgen initiative under the Fashion East incubator, Rose received financial support and mentorship in developing her brand, joining alumni including Kim Jones and Simone Rocha. Italian e-commerce firm the Level Group now holds a majority stake in the business that has faced notable financial challenges, including rising manufacturing costs owing to Brexit. Her namesake brand has not staged a show since June 2025.

De Meo says: “Balenciaga has always been a house of radical creativity, challenging conventions and redefining the boundaries of fashion. Her connection to the new generation and her instinctive understanding of culture bring a new dimension to the house. Her appointment reflects our ambition to keep Balenciaga at the forefront of innovation, creativity and culture.”