‘A wonderfully fluffy but crunchy-edged bite’: the best (and worst) supermarket crumpets, tasted and rated | Bread
adminUpdated 6 hours Ago3 Mins read
As a crumpet lover, this test was a joy, not least because analysing the inner workings of a crumpet raises some of life’s (almost) most important questions: how holey should it be? Does the number of holes actually matter? What are they made of? And how do they form?
Those holes really do matter, though the number of them on the surface matters less than the crumpet’s internal architecture, which should be well aerated with that classic, honeycomb texture. Remember the old vinegar and baking soda volcano experiment at school? Well, that texture is achieved through pretty much the same process, albeit using food-grade salts rather than vinegar. When the crumpet hits heat, the surface moisture turns to steam, forcing bubbles up through the dough to leave those archetypal surface craters that soak up butter.
The range of crumpets these days is remarkable, and even some of the most economical are of perfectly reasonable quality. In fact, many supermarket own-labels stand out for value and quality.
The best supermarket crumpets
Best overall:
Waitrose crumpets with sourdough
★★★★☆
Thick and well aerated (though with fewer holes than some), with a well-developed, full and nutty flavour. A comforting, fresh bread smell, a good bite and chew, and a classic recipe formula.
Best bargain:
Tesco classic crumpets
★★★☆☆
Very light and airy with a cratered top and a sweet-yeasty aroma. A wonderfully fluffy but crunchy-edged bite with good butter-absorbing potential. A simple recipe formula and great value.
And the rest …
M&S five grain crumpets
★★★★☆
Thick, wonderfully brown and surprisingly fluffy wholegrain crumpets with generous craters and a complex flavour in which the linseeds, rye and nutty spelt really come through. A sour wheat aroma and a soft bite.
Wildfarmed crumpets
★★★★☆
A good thickness, a fluted edge and huge holes on top. Very fluffy, with a base that crisps up well. A sweet, complex and rounded, full flavour. Made with flour grown by Wildfarmed’s regenerative farming project and sourdough, B Corp-certified, and this week’s best splurge.
Sainsbury’s Taste the Difference luxury sourdough crumpets
★★★☆☆
Very pale, with a sour aroma and a fluted bottom edge. Minimal holes on top, but good internal aeration. A good, soft but still crunchy bite and a well-developed sweet, nutty flavour. Made with sourdough and fermented rye flour.
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The Bakery at Asda crumpets
★★☆☆☆
Pale and slightly wonky, but well cratered and with a little charring on top. A subtle, sweet-sour, yeasty aroma. Full of bubbles throughout, this has a tender texture and a good bite. Excellent value. Contains preservative (potassium sorbate).
Ocado crumpets
★★☆☆☆
A slightly wonky shape, but lots of holes and craters from top to bottom. A sweet yet mildly sour aroma, a decent bite and a sweet taste. Contains spirit vinegar and preservative (potassium sorbate).
Warburtons original crumpets
★★☆☆☆
Very holey with a scorched top and a slightly rubbery texture. Sweet to the bite and a simple, clean aroma. Contains preservative (calcium propionate).
Aldi Specially Selected sourdough crumpets
★★☆☆☆
Very pale and rubbery-looking (it took three goes in the toaster to give it some colour) with wide craters and lots of aeration. A strong, sour flavour. Contains preservative (potassium sorbate).
Morrisons crumpets
★☆☆☆☆
A well-shaped, well-pitted if slightly pale crumpet with a golden-brown top. A faintly sour aroma and taste, with a dominant, synthetic edge. A firm, chewy bite, and contains sourdough culture(!), brandy vinegar and preservative (calcium propionate).
For more, read our roundup of the best brioche buns and the best croissants
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