14 Best Steakhouses in New York City for Old-School Chops, Wagyu, and the Perfect Martini

4 Charles St, West Village, Manhattan

The best thing that happened to me at 4 Charles Prime Rib was that I made a new friend. Steak and martinis and burgers, they’re all fabulous—make no mistake. But sometimes it’s the life that comes at you in pursuit of those delicious menu items that leaves you feeling the most full. Too corny? Allow me to elaborate.

4 Charles is one of the toughest tables in town. Like Torrisi, it’s practically a private members’ club where the only people who can land a reservation are those who’ve eaten there before. Hopeful walk-ins start lining up over an hour before opening at 4 p.m., and I got there at 2:45 p.m. to find myself second in line. I sat on the West Village townhouse stoop and enjoyed the day, enjoyed the sight of the staff puttering around setting up, glared at the people with reservations who we in line agreed were “line cutters.” When the host began seating people around 3:45 p.m., she told me that I was the first single walk-in and would therefore enjoy the one table by the door that they reserve for such parties. The man behind me, who arrived nary five minutes after I did, was told he would therefore have to wait until I was done. “Can’t I just sit with him?” he asked in earnest bewilderment. “Sure!” I responded.

And so together we unhinged our jaws and ate the 10-ounce double wagyu smash burger with thick slabs of bacon, his with an egg, and together we poured the beef jus over the pink center of the titular 4 Charles Cut and expressed our unexpected delight with the horseradish cream accoutrement. Together we drank martinis—I, a perfect vesper; he, an espresso; and then a chocolate each. If you’re going to try to go, I recommend you do so in this way. —Charlie Hobbs, associate editor